Showing posts with label Cusco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cusco. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

The Road to Macchu Picchu

The Incas must have been insane. Or maybe just terribly pompous. We headed west out of Cusco early morning, through the highland farms deeper into the lush, green mountains of the Eastern Andes. Far off in the distance snowcapped mountains peeked out in sharp contrast to those around us, which grew like late afternoon shadows. The drive involved thousands of meters of altitude change as we climbed to 4000m before descending into the pseudo-jungle valley. The road is compact dirt, etched into a cliff side, and was responsible for some of the scariest moments in my life.
 
 
We reached Hidroelectrico, literally a small village named after the nearby dam, around 2pm. From there one can take a short train to Aguas Calientes, the launch pad for Machu Picchu, or, as we did, take a leisurely two hour walk along the river and through the woods. Towers of stone line the river, coated with thick growth. The plants grow big here, and they grow everywhere. Seems like keeping the train running is a rough job.
 
Aguas Calientes is a small village in the valley below Machu Picchu filled with touristy goodness. Excellent food and accommodations are available to take advantage of before the journey up the mountain. We managed to find good pizza again, This time really good. Blew my mind. I also found these kids, who were joyously whipping each other in the street as part of an old tradition.

 
 
The journey up to what is believed to have been a royal retreat for the late Incas normally starts early in the morning and can be a two hour walk or a much shorter bus ride. In order to get up there early we chose the bus. Thirty leisurely minutes of dirt road switchbacks later, we finally reached the famed mountain of the Incas. Harsh rock and thick, dark flora are suddenly broken and replaced by intricately carved stone and bright green terraces. The limited views of the valley open up to unveil a vast expanse of crazy to build on mountains. It's a beautiful place built by a people whose culture was mysterious and vast. Whose empire spanned enormous stretches of land in more enormously inhospitable environments. It's green, yes, but who in their right mind would build here?  


 
 

 
Finally! Apologies for the delay - the time following this trip included two very busy weeks behind a bar and two pathetically lazy weeks back in Lima. Next stop will likely be Florida, so this may be the end, but it may not be. I'll update accordingly.

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Cusco

Aside from the religious tension, Cusco is like the Jerusalem of South America. The city has been built and rebuilt many times- by pre-incans, then the Inca, then the Spanish and finally once more by modern day Peruvians. Beneath the colonial architecture that dominates scene lie ancient stone foundations of enormous proportions. Proportions which defy our notions of what humans are truly capable of.
 
It seems every building is or has been, at one point, a cathedral or monastery. One hostel claims it is the home of conquistador Fransisco Pizarro's niece.  Green, fountain-clad plazas dot the city, connected by narrow cobblestone streets and surrounded by wide paved roads. Women in bright dress clutching baby llamas prey on the wallets of cute-animal addicted women. Various hawkers and shoe shiners wander about, hassling anyone whose gaze implies foreign blood.
 

 
It is a beautiful city with a thriving community and an excellent culinary scene. Though seemingly authentic, one can't help but feel a slight tinge of Disney World due to the overwhelming number of tourists and overall cleanliness of the central district. As the takeoff point for Machu Picchu, and arguably the most important historical city in all of Peru, it should be expected.
 
We spent four days in this city on the frontier of the jungle, adjusting to the altitude prior to our journey to Machu Picchu. Set in the eastern foothills of the Andes, it is the first truly green city we have had the chance to experience. After months of roaming deserts and mountains and plains it almost feels like home.
 

 
 
Today I begin a two week bartending gig in Cusco. We made it to Machu Picchu, and the group has finally separated as Russell, Sonal, and VJ fly to Lima. I'm a bit behind on writing due to all the activity. That update will be coming soon.
 
Also Russell got puppies.
 

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Chile to Lima to Cusco

After a pit stop in Chile and a relaxing week back in Lima we are off to Cusco. Updates soon.